Rome

Appian Way Sunday ride

Ancient stones, no cars on Sundays. Rent near the catacombs gate.

Artisan gelato Rome master

Churn stracciatella and pistacchio, cone craft. Summer essential.

Authentic carbonara Rome night

Guanciale crisp rules, pecorino snow, Testaccio trattoria. No cream ever.

Aventine keyhole dawn

St Peter's perfectly framed through a keyhole. Dawn means no queue.

Borghese timed slot

Bernini overload in two hours flat. Booking mandatory weeks out.

Cacio e pepe masterclass

Three ingredients, infinite technique. Eat immediately.

Carbonara the Roman way

No cream, ever. Guanciale, pecorino, black pepper at Roscioli.

Gianicolo sunset cannons

Daily cannon at noon, sunset crowds after. Best free view in Rome.

Ostia Antica day trip

Pompeii without the crowds, 40 min by train. Bring a picnic.