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Oaxaca

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Benito Juárez market lunch

Memelas at the counter, chocolate de agua to finish. Cash, small bills.

Chapulines dare

Chili-lime grasshoppers from a market basket. Crunch first, think later.

Cuilápam ex-convent

Roofless basilica, murals fading beautifully. Fifteen minutes south.

Guelaguetza festival week

Dance, music, mezcal fair. July, book everything early.

Hierve el Agua pools

Petrified waterfalls, infinity pools on a cliff edge. Swim allowed.

Jalatlaco walking morning

Cobblestones, bougainvillea, no crowds. Sunday mornings are silent.

Mezcal tasting in Oaxaca

Smoke, agave, sal de gusano. Sip, do not shoot.

Monte Albán sunset

Zapotec ruins above the valley, golden hour empty.

Oaxaca alebrijes paint day

Carve and paint spirit animals in Arrazola, copal wood. Neon folk.