Travel in Tokyo

Day trip to Nikko

Lake, falls and the gilded shrines of the Tokugawa — an easy train north.

Golden Gai bar hop

Six-seat bars stacked in Shinjuku alleys. Cover charges; cash only; magic.

Inokashira swan boats

Pedal the pond, feed nothing, walk to Kichijōji for dinner.

Shibuya after rain

Neon reflections, crossing at rush hour, basement ramen after.

Shibuya crossing scramble

Ride the world's busiest crossing on green, then watch it from the station deck.

Shinjuku Gyoen picnic

Lawns, glasshouses and skyscraper views behind the pay gate. Worth every yen.

Sumo morning practice

Watch training up close, strictly silent. Book months ahead.

Tokyo Skytree sunset

The city's tallest tower at golden hour, Fuji floating if you're lucky.

Tokyo in five days

Shibuya crossing, teamLab, one ramen queue worth it, day trip to Nikko.

Yoyogi Sunday picnic

Rockabilly dancers one side, picnics the other. Combini snacks in.